I have recently returned from another trip to Northern India during which I visited two festivals and was privileged to photograph a personal, intimate and life changing ceremony at each of them. There is also a forthcoming event for your diary, but more of that later.
After a ten year gap I decided it was time once again to visit the Kumbh Mela, the three month long celebration, marking one of the creation myths of Hinduism, that attracts pilgrims from all parts of India in uncountable millions. Although this time in a different city, Hardwar, and on a different stretch of the river Ganges, the spectacle was as extraordinary as I remembered it. No other country in the world can surely boast of such a religious phenomenon, and the sheer biblical scale of the event is by no means its only wonder.
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| Kumbh Mela Festival, Hardwar 2010 |
As I walked amongst the vast, slow moving crowds and watched the mass ritual bathing I could only once again marvel at the strength of faith that sustains this massive and remarkable enterprise. At its centre is the river, the Mother Goddess Ganga herself, the divine focus of each and every pilgrim. They flock to and from her banks determined that She should hear their prayers and heartfelt invocations, creating an endless ebb and flow, a relentless tide of humanity. Amidst this mass of ordinary Hindus are the saffron clad monks, saints and naked ash smeared Naga Sadhus who lend an exotic, arcane face to the whole captivating backdrop.
During the course of the festival, these ascetic Sadhus, who normally reside in remote Himalayan regions, live in tented encampments scattered across the length and breadth of the Mela ground. It is a rare opportunity to see these enlightened masters. The faithful sit amongst them and receive blessings, prayers and spiritual guidance.
I too spent many hours sitting in several smoke filled tents getting to know some of these men, all the time working to produce something photographically meaningful. Despite the constant motion of people and the all pervading noise there were moments of sublime opportunity for me as a photographer...
One morning quite unexpectedly I was invited to photograph a ceremony I had never seen before and which normally takes place in total privacy. The initiation ceremony between Naga Sadhu and his new disciple is intimate, full of symbolism and marks the start of a unique relationship. In the tent with me were three monks to act as witnesses, the sadhu himself and a 15 year old boy who was to become his "chela". It lasted only 10 minutes or so but it was as honestly real and spontaneous a situation as any photographer could hope for. For me those ten minutes encapsulated exactly what the work ‘Living Divinely’ is all about.
After a month in Hardwar I travelled to Punjab to spend another four weeks with the Nihang Singhs as these Sikh warriors continue to inspire my photographic attention. This coincided with the four day celebration of Hola Mohalla in Anandpur Sahib.
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| Nihang Singhs marching at Hola Mohalla 2010 |
On the penultimate day I photographed an Amrit ceremony officiated and conducted by Nihangs. Again, the event was deeply significant and personal for those taking part. I have been lucky to photograph this very private affair before but this time all the ingredients of the occasion seemed to come together to produce an image to match the spiritual grandeur of the moment.
I plan to have the latest set of pictures available soon in a new and bigger format but meanwhile to give you a feel for them, I’ve included a couple in this email - the first from the Kumbh Mela in Hardwar, and the later from Hola Mohalla in Anandpur Sahib.
This summer, I am giving a series of illustrated talks, which will definitely include much of my latest work, and some practical photographic seminars at Art in Action, the premier arts and craftsmanship showcase in the UK. The event takes place near Oxford and runs from the 15th – 18th July. It’s a truly wonderful experience to attend and I hope that I’ll see many of you there.
Hear the story and see the photos from last year's Art in Action event on my blog...
© Amritvela, London UK